Jun
15

Brachypelma albopilosum – Curlyhair Tarantula

Curlyhair TarantulaAnother great choice for beginners, the Brachypelma albopilosum (Curlyhair Tarantula) has a very docile temperament and is a good medium sized tarantula, growing to around 5.5 inches as a mature adult.
The curly hair gets it’s name, oddly enough, from the fact that it has curly hairs.

This species of tarantula comes with a dark brown carapace and legs which are covered in gold and tan hairs, making for a rather beautiful effect on a spider with limited color variations.

Brachypelma albopilosum – Curlyhair Tarantula Care Sheet

Scientific Name: Brachypelma albopilosum

Also Known As: Curlyhair, Honduran Curlyhair Tarantula, and Wooly Tarantula.

Range: Forested areas of Central America

Size: 5″ to 5.5″

Life span: Females up to 10 years, Males usually no older than 5 years.

Housing: A small 5 to 10 gallon tank is suitable for Mexican redknee tarantulas. The width of the tank should be two to three times wider than the leg span of the spider wide, and only as tall as the spider’s leg span. Floor space is more important than height.

Substrate: 2 to 3 inches of peat moss, or potting soil.

Decor: No decorations are really needed, but you can add a log, or cork bark, or half of a small clay flower pot can be used as a place to hide.

Temperature: 70F to 80F

Humidity: 75% – 80% – Occassional misting may also be required to maintain the appropriate humidity.

Growth: Slow

Diet: Gut-loaded crickets and other large insects (must be pesticide free), occasional pinky mouse for full grown spiders.

All tarantulas that have at least a 3″ legspan may drink from a shallow, wide water dish.

Temperament: Docile and calm, but can also be a little skittish at times.

Notes: n/a

For a comprehensive guide to Brachypelma albopilosum – Curlyhair Tarantula care, visit:

Brachypelma albopilosum

Return to the Species Menu: Tarantula Species

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Jun
15

Grammostola pulchra – Brazilian Black

By André Karwath aka Aka (Own work) [CC-BY-SA-2.5 (www.creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5)], via Wikimedia CommonsThe Grammostola pulchra tarantula (common name Brazilian Black Tarantula) is often refered to as the ‘best pet tarantula’ due to it’s docile temperament, and beautiful velvety black coloring.

As such this particular species of tarantula is often in scarce supply due to the high demand, and when available may be much higher priced than some of the more common and easier to breed species of tarantula.

The Brazilian black is related to the Grammostola rosea (Chilean Rose), and like it’s relative, is known to fast for several months at a time, so don’t worry if your tarantula isn’t feeding on a regular basis.  Provide adults with fresh water daily and Watch the spiders abdomen for signs of poor health.

Grammostola pulchra – Brazilian Black Tarantula Care Sheet

Scientific Name: Grammostola pulchra

Also Known As: Brazilian Black

Range: Native to grassland areas in Brazil and Uraguy

Size: 5″ to 6″

Life span: Females can live up to 20 years.

Housing: Due to the larger size of the Grammostola pulchra, a larger than usual enclosure is recmomended.  Adults will live comfortably in a 10 gallon tank. Floor space is more important than height.

Substrate: 3 to 5 inches of peat moss, or potting soil.

Decor: Logs, driftwood, cork bark, etc. make good hiding places. Moss can be added for floor cover.

Temperature: 75F to 80F

Humidity: 60% – 75% (Med) Regular misting may be required to maintain the appropriate humidity.

Growth: Slow

Diet: Insects such as crickets, grass-hoppers, beetles, moths, meal worms and cockroaches.  Larger adults may also enjoy pinkie mice and smaller lizards.

All tarantulas that have at least a 3″ legspan may drink from a shallow, wide water dish.

Temperament: Grammostola pulchra are docile, not prone to flicking uricating hairs, and one of the better species of tarantula for handling.

Notes: n/a

For a comprehensive guide to Grammostola pulchra – Brazilian Black Tarantula care, visit:

Grammostola pulchra

Return to the Species Menu: Tarantula Species

Return to the Homepage: Tarantula Care Center

 


Jun
09

Avicularia avicularia – Pinktoe Tarantula

Unusually for tarantuals the Avicularia avicularia (Pinktoe Tarantula) is more than happy to share it’s immediate environment with other spiders of the same species.

If kept together communally where the spiders are more or less the same size as each other, and thetre is plenty of room to move, and plenty of places to hide, the canabilism exhiubited by other species isn’t common.

The Pinktoe is a common choice for beginners interested in an arboreal tarantula – it’s somewhat attractive in color and quite docile in nature.

As always with all arboreal tarantuals, remember that they move much faster than their ground dwelling relatives, so be cautious when opening the enclosure for escaping spiders!

Avicularia avicularia – Pinktoe Tarantula Care Sheet

Scientific Name: Avicularia avicularia

Also Known As: Guyana Pinktoe Tarantula, Common Pinktoe Tarantula, and South American Pinktoe Tarantula, Martinique Red Tree Spider, Martinique Pinktoe

Range: Tropical areas of Brazil, Trinidad, Guyana, French Guyana, Surinam, Venezuela, and throughout the Amazon Basin.

Size: 4.5 to 5 inches.

Life Span: Females typically live 10 years or more.  Males, as usual live a lot shorter life.

Housing: Typically A 10 to 40-gallon tank, depending on the number of tarantulas in the commune.

Substrate: 2 to 3 inches of peat moss, potting soil, or wood chips.

Decor: Branches, live plants, vines, split logs etc. make good hiding places and provide a base for the web. Moss can be added for floor cover.

Temperature: 75F to 85F.

Humidity: 78 to 82%.

Growth: Medium

Diet: Crickets, moths, flies, other large insects, and an occasional small lizard or pinkie mouse.

All tarantulas that have at least a 3″ legspan may drink from a shallow, wide water dish.

Temperament: Pinktoe Tarantulas are usually docile, but are also very fast when they move, and are able to jump as much as 12 inches!

Notes: n/a

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Jun
09

Brachypelma vagans – Mexican Red-Rump

Brachypelma vagans Mexican Red RumpBrachypelma vagans – also named the Mexican Red-Rump because of the deep red hairs that cover it’s abdomen – is a beautiful tarantula can be found primarily in the scrublands of Mexico and down south through Central America into Guatemala.

This species of tarantula is also now considered an establish non-native resident of Florida, USA having been found wild there in the 1990s.

This spider is a burrower, they like to dig underground, and this particular species is renowed for producing amazing burrows.

They are widely kept as pets and have no special needs beyond those of any other pet tarantula.

Brachypelma vagans Details

Scientific NameBrachypelma vagans

Also Known As: Mexican Black Velvet

Range: Mexico, Belize, El Salvador and Guatemala. Non-native establish species in Florida. Typically found in deep burrows.

Size: 5″

Life span: Females approx 15 years, maturing in 1 to 2 years.

Housing: A good fit for a 2.5 to 5 gallon enclosure, with a secure mesh covering.

Substrate: 5 to 6 inches of peat moss, or potting soil.  As a burrower these spiders like to dig in deep.

Decor: Logs, driftwood, cork bark, etc. make good hiding places. Moss can be added for floor cover.

Temperature: 70F – 80F  This species prefers a temperature gradient, so your heating pad should only cover half of the tank to allow the spider to move between warmer and cooler ends of the tank.

Humidity: 75% (Med/High) provide a small water dish and deliver the occassional misting.

Growth: Fast

Diet:  Insects such as crickets, grass-hoppers, beetles, moths, meal worms and cockroaches. A staple diet of crickets is the only food a Tarantula needs besides water.

All tarantulas that have at least a 3″ legspan, including our Brachypelma vagans may drink from a shallow, wide water dish.

Temperament: Docile, skitish, occassionally aggressive.

Notes: n/a

For a comprehensive guide to Brachypelma vagans – Mexican Red-Rump Tarantula care, visit:

Brachypelma vagans

Return to the Species Menu: Tarantula Species

Return to the Homepage: Tarantula Care Center


Jun
09

Is A Pet Tarantula Right For You?

pet tarantulaDespite their scary, or creepy, reputation it’s becoming far more common to find tarantulas as pets in the last few decades!

They are quiet, relatively small (compared to a cat or dog, for example) and therefore don’t require a large space in which to reside, and for the most part, they don’t really need any special food or care either.

It’s quite common to find tarantula’s for sale in pet stores that carry exotic pets, and there are special online breeders just for various species of tarantula.  You might also find these spiders available at reptile shows if you are lucky enough to have any of these shows in your area.

Tarantulas As Pets: What Do You Need To Know?

There are a number of topics you ought to be knowledgeable about about before you buy your pet tarantula, or even before you choose the particular species you will own, including:

Note: You can click on the linked names in the list to learn more about that topic.

These articles should give you a basic understanding of the kind of care your pet tarantula will need, including all of the necessary feeding and habitat equipment you may need.

There are some 900 species of Tarantula which gives a wide variety of care needs, I suggest that in addition to reading the general articles here that you research more about the specific tarantula you plan to keep.

Typically, the best species for beginners are the slower-moving ground-dwelling and burrowing species of tarantula,  because they are easier to care for and have less exotic needs to worry about.

Suggested Tarantula Pet Beginner Species 

The list below shows the Latin name, followed by a common name.  Most species of tarantula have more than one common name, so the original Latin name is the most accurate guide to which species we are talking about.

Note: You can click on the linked names in the list to learn more about that topic.

The female tarantula tends to make for a better pet than the male spider, simply because they live longer than the males.  For example the female Grammostola rosea (Chilean Rose) has a life expectancy of 20+ years, whereas the male of the species tends not to live beyond the first three to five years.

The popularity of Tarantulas as pets continues to rise with more stores carrying them, and more species becoming available to own.  Obviously keeping a spider isn’t for everyone, but for those it is right for, you will find yourself involved in something that is likely to become a life long hobby.

To learn more click any of the links on this page, or select one of the topics listed in the menu’s to the right.

Jun
09

Tarantula Food & Diet

What Food do Tarantulas eat?

Tarantulas are carnivores, which mean they eat live food such as insects, small rodents, frogs and toads, and in some cases even small birds.

In captivity, your pet tarantula will be very happy on a regular diet of gut-loaded insects.  Crickets are a very common food source for spider owners and are available at most pet stores.

Most species of tarantula will only need to eat two or three times a week, depending on their size and growth rate.  Click here to learn more about individual Tarantula species size, growth rates, and feeding requirements.

How Do Tarantulas Eat?

Like all spiders, the Tarantula is incapable of eating solid food, which means they need to turn their meals into ‘soup’ in order to ingest it.  Tarantulas bite their prey and inject a venom to paralyze the target.  Once this is done the spider will then secretes digestive enzymes that liquefy the subject allowing the tarantula to drink the prey through straw-like parts of it’s mouth.

Gut-Loading

One major advantage of breeding your own insects, or buying store bought and keeping them alive for a few days before feeding them to your Tarantula is that you can gut-load them before they are eaten.

Gut-loading simply means that you get to choose what to feed the insects before you feed them to your spider.  This means you can stuff them with nutrition dense foods making them a far healthier meal for your pet Tarantula.

Capturing wild insects, while free, is always risky as you have no idea what they have eaten, what toxins or pesticides they may have come into contact with before you caught them.

Removing Old Food

You will want to check your enclosure daily, and if there is food left over the next day remove it and wait a day or two before putting more in.

Tarantulas are interesting when it comes to diet.  You can’t ever overfeed your pet, so don’t worry about how much they eat.  On the flip-side, it’s also not uncommon for tarantuals to ge for extended periods of time without eating, so don’t get worried if your spider hasn’t eaten for a few days.

Water

Provide fresh water for your pet daily, but don’t be overly concerned if you don’t see them drinking, a lot of the water they need comes from their food.  If they need more, they will go drink.

Pay careful attention to the spiders abdomen, especially during periods where the spider isn’t eating – a shrivelled abdomen can indicate that the tarantula is dehydrated.

It’s a good idea to try more food at the same time, just in case – remembering that the spider can also get water from the food it eats too.

Return to the Homepage, or click any of the links in the menu to the right to continue.

Jun
09

Tarantula Molting

Much like the way a hermit crab discards a shell when it becomes too small to live in, and like how a snake will shed it’s skin when it’s time to grow, tarantulas go through a similar process and will shed their skin periodically as they grow.

The tarantula molting period is a very difficult and stressful time for your pet tarantula, so it’s advisable to know what to expect.

For a week or two prior to molting, your spider may refuse to eat.  There may be droplets of clear fluid leaking from the spiders leg joints (note this doesn’t always happen to every tarantula so don’t be alarmed if you don’t see any).  The spider may loose hairs on her abdomen, which look look like your pet has a ‘bald spot’.

The tarantula will lie on it’s back for the actual molting process, and it will almost look like it’s dead.  Since the molting period can last anywhere from 15 minutes to several hours, it’s best to leave your spider alone if you happen to look in the enclosure and find it laying on it’s back motionless, it’s more likely to be molting than to have died, assuming you follow good care practises, of course.

Disturbing a tarantula during the molting process can actually harm the spider, sometimes causing death, so just sit back and enjoy the show.

Once your pet tarantula has emerged from it’s old skin, it’s new skin will be extremely soft and delicate.  You will need to give the spider at least a week after the molting experience before handling her, to avoid hurting her.

Also, don’t feed the spider for the first few days either, the fresh new skin is so soft that even the crickets you feed her with can injure her.  Provide fresh clean water daily as usual.

After the first few days the new skin will begin to harden and you can offer her fresh food.  At between one to two weeks after molting, the skin hardening will be complete, and you can begin handling your pet once again.

Interesting Fact: If the spider was missing a leg when the molting period began, it can regenerate the leg during the molting process.  The regenerated leg won’t likely be quite as big as the original, but it will be functional.

How cool is that?

Return to the Homepage, or click any of the links in the menu to the right to continue.

Jun
09

Handling Your Tarantula

The first question to ask yourself is ‘should I handle my tarantula?

There is no actual need to handle the spider, it won’t affect it’s health or anything like that, so the decision is entirely on you.  Some people just like to be up-close and personal with their spiders, others prefer to see them on the other side of the glass.

If you do decide to handle your tarantula, remember that spiders are actually quite fragile, and at the same time remember that some species of tarantula are also very fast little buggers – so you need to learn how to handle them properly – the last thing you want is to have thee spider make a run for it, and for you to just react and grab it – chances are you will cause the spider an injury.

Handling Your Tarantula: How to pick up a spider

How to hold a tarantulaThe best way to pick up your pet spider is to gently reach between the second and third legs on each side, using your thumb asnd forefinger, and securely lift the spider of the ground.  The tarantulas instincts tell it to freeze and hold-still instead of trying to run out of the way when all of it’s legs leave the ground at the same time.

Some species are pretty docile and won’t move around a whole lot.  they may crawl over your hands and thats as lively as they get.  Others like to crawl all over you, if you let them, and are quite fast at it.  It’s advisable to keep your pet tarantual on your hands as much as possible, both for your safety and theirs.

It only takes a fall of about 3 feet to burst the abdomen of most species of tarantula, so avoidng any acrobatics is also advised.  Should this happen your spider will die over the next few hours.

If you are nervous at all about handling your spider, or there is a lot of commotion in the room, such as young children, or while you have friends over watching the ball game, it’s best to leave your spider in their enclosure – at these times it’s just best not to risk it.

Tarantula Defenses

Not all spiders are gong to let you pick them up, in fact the first response of most will be to withdraw or hide where possible when you attempt to.
If this isn’t possible for any reason, the tarantula will resort to throwing hairs at its attacker, including at you if you are the antagonist at the time.

By rubbing it’s legs rapidly across it’s abdomen, the spider will fling hairs to discourage the attacker.  In most cases this is a very effective tactic for the spider, even against humans, where the hairs can cause a temporary, but painful, rash.

Tarantula’s also have a poisonous bite, but the poison isn’t strong enought o do much damage to something our size – most often it is used on prey smaller than the spider.  A tarantula bite is comparable to a bee sting in how it feels when it happens.

You will need to clean and disinfect the bite, although no direct deaths have been attributed to a tarantula bite, infections have been known to set in after untreated bites causing more problems for the bitten.

The spider will usually give fair warning ahead of biting by rearing up on it’s hind legs and showing it’s fangs – if you see this happening it’s advisable to leave your pet well alone for a while.

Learn more about specific species of tarantula:

Tarantula Species

Or go back to the Home Page:

Tarantula Care Center Home Page

Jun
09

Tarantula Care

Considering that there are known to be around 900 difference species of Tarantula, you might expect there to be a wide variety of characteristics that affect tarantula care – and this is most definitely the case.

Tarantulas can be found on almost every continent including Europe, Australia, Africa, southern Asia, and both North and South America.

Some species are known to burrow right into the ground and make silk lined burrows, while others prefer to be high up in the trees building themselves nests of silk.

Tarantula Care Sheet (Generic)

Enclosure: Most tarantulas will be fine kept inside a 2.5 or 5 (or 10 for the larger species) gallon enclosure – a fish tank with a securable screen or guaze cover works well for this.

Substrate: The bottom of the enclosure should be 2 or 3 inches deep with substrate (sterilized potting soil works well).  If you choose to own a burrowing species of tarantula you will want more substrate than this.

Hide: Tarantulas like to hide, so include something in the tank for the to use – something like a half log, or half of a clay pot, work well for this.

Water: A shallow water dish, supplied with fresh clean water daily – hopefully for obvious reasons.

Heating: A heating pad attached to the glass on the side or bottom of the tank.

Lighting: Lighting is optional; try not to use anything too bright, and a dull yellow or red colored bulb works well.

Food: Gut-loaded crickets, or similiar insects, are always a favorite food source for tarantulas.  Larger species can also eat small mice.

Decor: It’s quite common for tarantula keepers to add more natural decorations into their tank – this is purely on a personal preference level and will vary according to the size of the tank and the environment your tarantula is natively found.

For more information about the tarantula enclosure, read:

Tarantula Enclosure & Habitat

To read about the various species that make great pet tarantulas, read:

Tarantula Species

Or, choose any of the menu options on the right.

 


Jun
09

Tarantula Enclosure & Habitat

Tarantula cageWhen it comes to building the ideal tarantula enclosure, remember that safety comes first, for both your pet tarantula, and yourself and family.

Safety First:

While there are no recorded deaths directly from tarantula bites, some species are large enough to cause permanent damage when they bite, not to mention the scare effect when someone sees a large spider outside of any secured environment.

You will want to ensure your enclosure has a securable mesh or screen lid to avoid any accidental excursions on your spiders behalf.

A Tarantula Enclosure is Solitary Confinement!

Tarantulas are canabalistic – they will attack and eat other tarantuals kept inside the same cage, so it’s a good idea to keep them alone in separate enclosures if you keep more than one.

Most species of tarantula will be more than happy kept in a 2.5 or 5 gallon sized tank.  Some owners prefer to use a 10-gallon tank instead because it allows for a lot more options when it comes to decorating, especially if you own an arboreal tarantula that likes climbing and building it’s next higher up in the trees.

Be careful not to allow a ground-dweller or burrower to climb too high as a fall from height can seriously hurt or kill your pet.

Tarantula Enclosure Basics

Let’s take a look at the basic features every Tarantula enclosure will need to have in place to help provide a healthy, safe and comfortable environment for your pet spider.

Heating

Tarantuals naturally live in warm environments, so you will want to maintain a temerature inside the tank of around 70F – 80F.  this is typically managed by using a small heating pad inside of the tank.

Lighting

Lighting isn’t required inside the enclosure; tarantulas prefer a lower light environment, and don’t like bright lights or direct sunlight.  You may want low lighting inside the tank that you can toggle on and off to showcase your pet tarantula to visiting friends.

Substrate

Substrate is the bedding you will use to cover the bottom of the tank.  Sterilized potting soil, or similar, works perfectly well for this, and is available at most pet stores catering for this kind of pet.

Typically, you will have up to 3 inches of substrate in the bottom of your tarantula enclosure, adding more if your particular pet happens to be the burrowing kind.

A Hide

An essential addition to any tarantula tank is a place for the spider to retreat to, to hide in.  An item like a half log, or half of a clay flower potwork perfectly fine for this.

Decorations

While these aren’t required to keep your spider happy, most owners like to add a little decoration to their enclosures, i think as much to make a better display for themselves, their friends and family to look at as much as it is for the tarantula inside.

Most often, you would want to build a habitat closely resembling the spiders natural environment.  Use wooden logs, rocks, vines, and plants to create the idea home for your pet.

Cleaning Up

Most pets, like dogs or fish, require cleaning up after constantly, but the tarantula is a very clean pet.  You will need to clean their tank out from time to time, but not very often at all.  Tarantula’s excrete a fluid that doesn’t really smell, and dries up very quickly, leaving little mess to clean up after.

You should anticipate cleaning the enclosure two or three times a year, every 4 to 6 months works well.

For obvious reasons it’s best to transfer the spider into another container during the cleaning process.

A good cleaning will include picking out any insect parts not eaten by the tarantula, wiping down both the inside and outside of the tank, and replacing the substrate.

On a related note, you will want to clean out the water dish more regularly to stop stop the water fouling, and preventing mold growing, paying attention to remove dead insects that happen to drown in the dish.

Here are some links you may find useful to continue your education:

Homepage – Back to the main page.

Tarantula Species – learn more about individual species of tarantula.

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